Monacacy Crossing

Still fabulous food. I went with the specials this week — a terrific wedge of grilled polenta in a wild mushroom sauce for an appetizer, and an exceptional venison in a soy/pomegranate glaze. One minor disappointment — the salad greens went a bit soggy in their dressing. Portions err on the side of generosity, but when it’s good, I can’t really complain about it.

Oh, and one gripe — I’m not a fan of the chocolate sauce he uses on his desserts. It’s too milk-chocolatey and too sugary, almost like a frosting.

[original review 2002-12-23 follows]

A nice surprise in the outer outer suburbs. Food was excellent, across the board, from shellfish to meats to pasta to dessert. A heaping plate of steamed mussels were tender and juicy, in a rich and moderately garlicky broth. Scallops and shrimp fettucini alfredo were perfectly prepared, on a bed of homemade fettucini that was broad, thick, and beautifully al dente. The pork cutlets were moist and flavorful without the slightest hint of dryness. Even the desserts, which erred towards the side of “comfortable” rather than “impressive”, emphasized fresh ingredients prepared on-site with considerable skill. My slice of German chocolate cake may not have been as ambitious as a chocolate souffle’, but it was rich and moist and layered with an unbelievable amount of coconut; the best I’ve had in a long time.

The moderate prices of the menu belie the quality of the food and the generous portions. I had absolutely no disappointments from the kitchen. Decor is simple, something of a modern interpretation of a roadside inn. Service is friendly and perhaps appropriate for the setting, but could be a bit more attentive.

Followup dinner visit was slightly less satisfying; the roulade of mozzarella, basil and (mortadella?) didn’t appear to be freshly prepared and consequently suffered from muddled flavors. The bread still had a beautifully developed structure, but should have been crustier. My pork chop was nice...very nice. I suspect the trick is to dine early.

-dave

just an add on to kobi’s and dave’s reviews, with which I essentially agree: there aren’t any other restaurants of this caliber in the greater Frederick area, so it tends to be packed on weekend nights. Call ahead to make sure you can get a table.

A local country eating establishment, with cuisine that could stand up in Bethesda. The combination of comfort, friendliness, and good food doesn’t quite make it a destination [it’s in the middle of the countryside, after all!], but it does make for an enjoyable evening, and you’ll find yourself wanting to go back.