Firefly

The chef is leaving here soon, so the future is uncertain at this local hotel restaurant. I went in this past weekend, and had a thoroughly competant meal, though I can’t claim any knockouts. The truffled fries seemed overwhelming this time, instead of addictive. The mac-n-cheese was heavy first, creamy second. The slow-cooked pork was tender and tasty, and my spiked coffee and pannacotta were both enjoyable. But the wine was merely so-so, and my (admittedly picky) dining companion would only allow that dinner was pretty ok. That was a somewhat spendy ok.

A pleasant space even if they do take the concept a bit too far, and the kitchen really delivers. Hearty dishes like lamb stew can be wonderful. Homey dishes like mac and cheese and frites (okay, with truffles and Parmesan, they ain’t that homey) are fantastic. Chef has a good touch with foie gras.