1789

I think we were the youngest group of people in the restaurant. We were treated with bemusement, and some kindly condescension. Very old guard, as one might expect. It’s a measure of the usual clientele that the waiter was visibly surprised when I ordered a French wine with dinner.

The food was outstanding, when it arrived. There was a massive kitchen backlog due to a large private party, and so everything was off-kilter. One party was seated, ate, and left before our entrees arrived. Our waiter tried to head off the hunger pangs by making up an entire tray of the truly tasty gazpacho and passing it around, but it was still vexing. Still, we were taking advantage of a $35 fixed price three-course special, so I didn’t feel like I could complain too loudly. But those chairs! Sitting in those chairs with no food was some torture. Bring your own cushion.

All in all, very tasty. Still, there are many more restaurants to explore in that bracket, and I don’t know that I’ll be getting back any time soon.

The setting and the clientele are stuffy, but alas the seats are not. The food however is well-conceived and executed, from appetizer through dessert. The yellowfin tartare with its pieces of ripe avocado throughout was beautifully creamy, and balanced nicely against the crisp seaweed salad with which it shared a plate. Each bite of steak filet, deliciously tender and perfectly medium-rare on its own (as one should expect) was elevated again by a dip in the trace of marrow and wine reduction surrounding it.

If there’s a problem with 1789, it’s that it strives to be the Old Guard dining establishment that its location suggests. Pity...this food should be enjoyed by more relaxed people in more relaxed surroundings.

Jackets required for gentlemen. Complimentary valet parking a definite win in a difficult-to-park part of town.

-dave

from the menu: “Classic Caesar Salad... romaine, [etc], anchovies” ’nuff said.