Green Papaya

Kinda wish I hadn’t read Shields’ review first; he took the words right out of my keyboard.

However, I will emphasize that Green Papaya served the best mango ice cream I’ve ever had that I didn’t make myself. Vijay’s eye’s popped wide open when he tried it. It really does rock. And so does the ginger.

Green Papaya offers a well-stocked Vietnamese menu in a thoroughly decorated space, including a waterfall behind the bar. It looks like a place that would be a Bethesda local’s favorite date restaurant. Does the food measure up?

Unfortunately, if your date is a food geek, then all too likely the answer is no. The problem isn’t the blandness or Americanization that’s infected most “Mexican” and “Thai” restaurants; instead, it’s a girlish heavy hand with the sweet sauces, an absence of spice, and a lack of balance. Chilean sea bass in pepper sauce was far too sweet, overpowering the fish, and a standard bowl of chicken over rice vermicelli suffered from dry and overspiced chicken. Yet the same kitchen produced solid spring rolls and a good ginger duck salad, both light and balanced. Dessert brought an overcooked flan with unnecessary whipped cream garnish, but also some truly excellent ginger and mango ice creams.

If only everything here were as good as the strongest dishes, this could be an 8. Sadly, Green Papaya is too hit-and-miss to really recommend.